Soraa MR-16 lamps yellowing

[mowen67]

Hi all.

I have been using Soraa MR-16 lamps in several of our galleries for 5-plus years now. I love the snap lens system- and the way the light looks when new, however, I find that they turn yellow long before they die. This can make an artwork look pretty bad, so I'll often change the yellow lamp out.

They are quite expensive!

Sometimes I'll write the date in Sharpie on the lamp when I install them, but no data yet. ( Meaning I have yet to de-install one of the lamps with a date.)

Anybody else have this problem?

Michael Owen
RISD Museum

[T. Ashley McGrew]

I think it is kind of common based on previous postings. It is certainly what we experienced at my museum. It is a great product and very versatile but dimming and color shifting can be a problem after less than 5 years time.
Do you adjust your light levels using screen material? Currently that is our only option. The product is officially promoted as being for use in "closed fixtures" but I don't think that it is intended that those fixtures be blocked off from airflow by multiple layers of metal window screen.
As stopgap I have substantially enlarged existing vent holes on the back of our fixtures in and effort to increase airflow but the jury is out at this point as to whether that will really help. I hope to be able to purchase more lamps in the future but at this point until I have some fixtures that have built in dimmers I am kind of stuck.
I am looking at individual fixtures that can be dimmed over the more expensive systems that you operate via Bluetooth don't take into account the effects of even very slight adjustments of angle and distance that can be very effective on their own.
Everyone please chime in here with your own experience. We need to help each other out.
Anyway, good luck please fill us all in if you figure anything out.
Cheers,
Ashley

[mowen67]

Thanks, Ashley.
It's good to know I'm not alone in this. I do use metal screens and usually a beam softener or spread lens, so the lamp could definitely use more airflow.

Speaking of Soraa lamps, I bought a few of their PAR 36 replacement lamps for close to 50 bucks a piece. They work fine in our fixtures with wire attachments to the screw terminal (of which I have approximately one million) but are too heavy for the larger cans with a "clip-in" attachment (AR-111)

Any thoughts on good PAR 36 led lamps would be welcome!

Michael

[Suzy Zaner]

Thanks, Ashley.
It's good to know I'm not alone in this. I do use metal screens and usually a beam softener or spread lens, so the lamp could definitely use more airflow.

Speaking of Soraa lamps, I bought a few of their PAR 36 replacement lamps for close to 50 bucks a piece. They work fine in our fixtures with wire attachments to the screw terminal (of which I have approximately one million) but are too heavy for the larger cans with a "clip-in" attachment (AR-111)

Any thoughts on good PAR 36 led lamps would be welcome!

Michael

Hi Michael,
I recently purchased some PARS from RAB and have been happy with them.
Best,
Suzy

[T. Ashley McGrew]

Hi Suzy,
I think almost everyone who has used the product has loved them (especially the ones with the magnetic beam spreaders). Initially they perform really well. The problem starts happening later when the color starts shifting. It can take a couple of years. Unfortunately we purchased quite a few over a period of time and as the shifting progressed we ended up with a whole range of yellowish colored lamps. It became a color matching nightmare! It could be that our old Lightolier fixtures have particularly bad airflow. I don't know. There seem to be a lot of variables. Good luck! I hope yours keep working well for a long time!
ashley